Biscotti - the Dipping Cookie

Italian biscotti are the dipping cookies built for survival. Twice-baked into rock-solid crunch, they hold up to a slow dunk in coffee, espresso, or vin santo without falling apart, and they keep for a full month in a tin without going stale. This version stays close to the traditional Tuscan style by using just a little margarine and relying on the eggs for richness, which is what gives proper biscotti their crisp, sandy texture.

Toasting the hazelnuts and almonds before they go into the dough is essential. Raw nuts taste flat after the long bake, but toasted nuts deepen the whole cookie with a warm, roasted character. Pulse the lemon zest with the granulated sugar in the food processor first; the sugar abrades the zest and releases its oils for a brighter citrus flavor throughout.

The double bake is what makes them biscotti. First bake the logs at 400F (205C) until firm, then slice them diagonally while still warm and lay the cut sides down for a second drying bake at 325F (165C). Slicing while warm prevents the dough from crumbling, but moving too soon means soft, doughy interiors. Wait until they’re cool enough to handle but still warm.

Pro Tips

• Toast nuts on a dry sheet pan for 8 minutes exactly, watch closely, hazelnut skins go bitter when scorched
• Brush the egg white wash thinly and evenly, pooled egg white burns and leaves dark spots
• Use a sharp serrated knife with a gentle sawing motion to slice the logs, pressing straight down crumbles them
• Cool fully on wire racks for proper crispness, biscotti cooled on the pan trap steam and stay chewy

Variations

• Stir in a half-cup of dried cranberries or chopped chocolate after pulsing in the dry ingredients
• Sub orange zest for lemon and add a pinch of anise seed for a more traditional Tuscan version
• Dip the cooled ends in melted dark chocolate for a gift-shop finish