Kashmiri Spinach

Kashmiri spinach, known as haak, is a staple of Kashmir’s Indian vegetarian cooking. It’s not the creamy, dairy-laden palak paneer you might expect. This is spinach cooked down into a thick, intensely flavored mash seasoned with asafetida, turmeric, cayenne, and a fragrant homemade garam masala.

Asafetida (hing) goes into the hot oil first. Just an eighth of a teaspoon releases a pungent, onion-like aroma that mellows into a savory backbone as it cooks. It’s a defining ingredient in Kashmiri cooking, where many Brahmin recipes avoid onion and garlic entirely.

Two and a half pounds of spinach seems like a mountain, but it wilts down dramatically. After 25 minutes of cooking uncovered with water, then mashing and simmering another 10, you get a concentrated, dark green dish where every spoonful packs serious flavor.

The homemade garam masala sprinkled at the end is what makes this distinctly Kashmiri. Black cumin seeds, whole cloves, cardamom, nutmeg, and cinnamon ground fresh in a spice grinder produce an aroma that pre-ground store-bought spice blends can’t replicate.

Chef Tips

• Grind the garam masala spices right before using. Freshly ground spices are dramatically more aromatic than pre-ground.
• A pinch of baking soda helps the spinach keep its bright green color during the long cook.
• Mash the spinach with the back of a spoon for a rustic texture. A smooth purée is too uniform for this dish.
• Serve alongside steamed rice and dal for a traditional Kashmiri meal.

Variations

• Add a dried Kashmiri red chili to the oil with the asafetida for a smokier, milder heat.
• Stir in a tablespoon of mustard oil at the end for a pungent, traditional Kashmiri finish.
• Mix in cubed paneer during the last 5 minutes to make it a more substantial main dish.