Leek & Potato Soup (Marguerite Patten)

This is leek and potato soup the British way, from legendary cookbook author Marguerite Patten. Leeks, potatoes, and onion tossed in margarine for 5 minutes, then simmered in stock for 25 minutes until tender. Sieve or blend until smooth, and finish with a swirl of yogurt or cream.

The recipe specifically warns against overcooking. Twenty-five minutes is the ceiling. Beyond that, the fresh, delicate flavor of the leeks dulls into something flat and cabbage-like. You want the leeks to taste like leeks, not like they’ve been boiled into submission.

Using a bit of the tender green part of the leeks (not just the white) adds color and a slightly more pronounced leek flavor to the finished soup.

The recipe includes three built-in variations, which is very Marguerite Patten.

Variations

• Curried leek and potato: Stir in curry paste with a splash of milk and simmer for a few minutes. A warming twist on the classic.
• Watercress and potato: Use fewer leeks and add watercress leaves and tender stalks. Top with freshly chopped watercress.
• Cold vichyssoise: Blend the cold soup with milk or single cream and a splash of white wine. Chill thoroughly before serving.

Kitchen Tips

• Wash leeks thoroughly by splitting them lengthwise and rinsing between layers. Grit hides deep inside.
• The potatoes thicken the soup naturally as they break down during blending. No flour or cream needed for body.
• Tossing the vegetables in margarine before adding liquid builds a more complex flavor base than simply boiling everything from the start.