Lemon Verbena Ice Cream

Lemon verbena is one of those herbs that smells like summer in a glass of lemonade, bright, lemony, with a soft floral edge. Steeped into a rich custard base, it makes an ice cream that’s far more interesting than plain vanilla and impossible to buy in a shop.

The base is a classic French custard, so a little technique pays off. After steeping the verbena leaves in hot cream and milk for a couple of hours to draw out their flavor, you temper the hot cream into the egg yolks, whisking in a little at a time so the yolks warm gradually instead of scrambling into sweet scrambled eggs.

Then comes the one moment of vigilance: cook the custard gently until it thickens enough to coat the back of a spoon, but never let it boil, or it will curdle. Chill the base completely cold before churning, since a warm base freezes slowly and turns icy instead of creamy.

Pro Tips

• Temper slowly: whisk the hot cream into the yolks a ladle at a time so they don’t scramble.
• Cook the custard only until it reaches 180°F (82°C) and coats a spoon; boiling it will curdle the eggs.
• Chill the base thoroughly, ideally overnight, before churning for the smoothest, creamiest result.

Variations

• Infuse fresh basil, mint, or lemon balm in place of, or alongside, the lemon verbena.
• Add a strip of lemon zest to the steeping cream for a sharper citrus note.
• Swirl in lemon curd or crushed shortbread after churning.