Best Mincemeat

This is the real-deal mincemeat the Victorians and Edwardians put into their Christmas pies, the version that gives the dish its name. Four boiled calves’ tongues chopped fine join two and a half pounds of suet, six pounds of apples, four pounds of sugar, two pounds each of raisins and currants, candied lemon and orange peel, almonds, warm spices, fresh citrus rind and juice, and a quart of brandy plus two quarts of whiskey.

It’s a serious recipe. The crock cures for three weeks first, then sits another four weeks before pies get baked. By the seven-week mark, the meat has melted into the dried fruit, the alcohol has mellowed into the spices, and the whole thing tastes like Christmas in concentrated form.

Calf’s tongue is the historically correct choice, with a tender, almost gelatinous texture after long boiling that melts into the mince invisibly. If you can’t find tongue, use very lean boiled beef chuck, finely minced, as a workable substitute.

Always bake this mincemeat between two crusts. The double crust is critical: the meat content needs the protection of pastry top and bottom to bake safely and evenly.

Pro Tips

• Boil the calves’ tongues until very tender (about 3 hours) before chopping. Tough tongue ruins the smooth texture mincemeat is supposed to have.
• Use a stoneware or glazed crock with a tight lid for curing. Plastic absorbs flavors and metal reacts with the acid in the citrus and alcohol.
• Stir the mixture thoroughly every few days during the curing period. This redistributes the alcohol and prevents anything from settling on the bottom.
• Sniff before use. Properly cured mincemeat smells boozy, sweet, and warmly spiced. Anything off-smelling means it’s spoiled.

Variations

• Substitute beef tongue if calf’s tongue isn’t available, or use lean boiled beef as a tongue alternative.
• Reduce the alcohol by half if the full amount feels excessive; the cure time still works.
• Add ½ pound of chopped figs or dates alongside the raisins for extra body and natural sweetness.