Favorite Salmon Mousse

Salmon mousse is the dinner-party showpiece that owes its existence to retro entertaining magazines and still earns gasps when you bring it to the table. Flaked salmon folds into a tarragon-vinegar custard thickened with eggs and flour, then set with gelatin and lightened with whipped cream into a silky, savory mousse.

The fish-shaped mold is part of the charm. Slices of pimento and olive form the eye, thin radish rounds become scales, and the whole thing rises off a bed of lettuce like an art deco supper club centerpiece. Equal parts kitsch and elegance, with shockingly good flavor.

Serve as a passed appetizer with crackers or toast points, or center it on a platter for a buffet. Make it the day before, since the flavors deepen and the mousse sets firmer with time in the fridge.

Pro Tips

• Add the vinegar slowly to the egg-and-milk mixture, stirring constantly. Dumping it in shocks the eggs and curdles the custard before it has a chance to thicken properly.
• Bloom the gelatin in cold water first, never hot. Hot water seizes the gelatin into clumps that won’t dissolve.
• Fold the whipped cream in only when the mixture is just slightly thickened. Too warm and you’ll deflate the cream, too cold and you can’t fold it in evenly.
• Rinse the mold with cold water before filling. The thin water layer creates a release surface that lets the mousse pop out cleanly when inverted.

Variations

• Use canned tuna or smoked trout in place of salmon for a different fish profile.
• Add a tablespoon of finely chopped fresh dill or chives to the custard for an herbed version.
• Spike with a teaspoon of horseradish or a splash of vodka for a bolder, party-leaning flavor.