Garlicky Falafel

Real falafel starts with dried chickpeas, not canned. Canned beans are too soft and waterlogged, and they make a falafel that falls apart in the oil or fries into a dense, gummy puck. Soaked-but-uncooked dried chickpeas hold their structure through the grinder and the fryer.

The potato is the slightly unusual touch in this version. Run through the meat grinder with the chickpeas, onion, and garlic, the raw potato adds binding starch that helps the falafel hold together without flour or breadcrumbs taking over.

The two-pass grinding is the technique that matters most. The first grind breaks the ingredients down. The second blends them into a uniform paste. Skip the second pass and the falafel will crumble in the oil.

Resting the mixture for two to three hours gives the flavors time to marry and the starch time to hydrate, both essential for proper texture.

Baking soda added at the last minute (right before frying) is the secret to a light, airy interior. The soda reacts with the slight acidity in the chickpeas and creates carbon dioxide bubbles that puff the falafel as they hit the hot oil.

Fry at 350F (175C) until deep golden brown. Serve with tahini, pickled turnips, fresh herbs, and warm pita.

Pro Tips

• Soak dried chickpeas overnight in plenty of water. They double in size, so use a big bowl.
• A food processor works in place of a meat grinder. Pulse, don’t puree, for the coarse texture falafel needs.
• Damp hands prevent the mixture from sticking when shaping. Keep a small bowl of water nearby.
• Test-fry one falafel first. If it falls apart, add another tablespoon of flour to the mixture.

Variations

• Add ½ cup of chopped fresh parsley and 2 tablespoons of cilantro for a herb-green Lebanese version.
• Stir in 1 teaspoon of sumac for a citrusy, tangy edge.
• Serve in pita with hummus, shredded lettuce, tomato, cucumber, and a drizzle of tahini for the classic sandwich.