Grilled Summer Squash

Summer squash has a bad reputation for going soft and watery, but a grill fixes that in a hurry. Splitting the squash lengthwise exposes maximum cut surface to the coals, which is how you get those dark char marks and a nutty, concentrated flavor instead of steamed mush. The lemon juice in the baste does double work: it brightens the flavor and its acid helps the exterior firm up as it hits the heat.

Rosemary handles grilling better than most soft herbs because its oils stay put and deepen under fire. Fresh if you’ve got it, dried in a pinch. Turn the halves every few minutes so they cook evenly and the baste doesn’t scorch on one side. Pierce with a knife tip; if it slides through with slight resistance, they’re done.

Pro Tips

• Don’t oversalt the baste. Squash releases water, and salt pulls even more out, leaving limp halves. Season after grilling.
• Keep the coals medium-hot, not blazing. High heat chars the skin before the inside softens.
• Swap margarine for olive oil or butter for a richer flavor. The recipe’s lean profile was built for diabetic cooking, but it works either way.
• Leftover halves chop beautifully into pasta, grain bowls, or a cold summer salad the next day.

Variations

• Add minced garlic and a pinch of chili flakes to the baste.
• Finish with crumbled feta and torn basil for a Mediterranean spin.
• Swap rosemary for thyme or oregano, both hold up well over fire.