Lemon Chiffon Pie with Kiwi

This lemon chiffon pie is feather-light, and the secret is a clever swap: instead of heavy cream, you whip well-chilled evaporated milk into soft peaks. It takes only a minute or two and folds the whole filling full of air, giving a cloud-like texture with a fraction of the richness.

Gelatin is what holds that airiness in place. Bloom and dissolve unflavored gelatin in warm lemon water, then beat it into the whipped milk with sugar and a drop of yellow coloring. As it chills, the gelatin sets the foam into a soft, sliceable chiffon that holds its shape with no baking at all.

Two details matter most. First, the evaporated milk must be very cold, so chill the bowl and beaters too, or it won’t whip to peaks. Second, work fast once the gelatin is in, since it sets as it cools and you want it smooth in the crust before it firms. Tart lemon keeps it from cloying, and a fan of sliced kiwi on top adds color and a little tang.

Pro Tips

• Chill the evaporated milk, bowl, and beaters thoroughly. Warm milk won’t whip into peaks, and the whole pie depends on that volume.
• Dissolve the gelatin completely with no grains left, or you’ll get rubbery bits in the set filling.
• Pour the filling into the crust right after mixing, before the gelatin starts to firm up.

Variations

• Swap lime juice and zest for a lemon-lime version, or crown it with strawberries instead of kiwi.
• Use a baked pastry shell in place of the graham crust for a more traditional pie.
• Fold a little lemon zest into the filling for a more pronounced citrus punch.