Randy's Christmas Persimmon Cake

Christmas persimmon cake is the holiday loaf you bake when ripe persimmons start showing up at the market in late fall. Two cups of pulp from soft, jammy Hachiya persimmons gives this cake its dense, moist crumb and a honey-pumpkin flavor that’s hard to pin down until you taste it.

The spice mix leans full-on holiday. Cinnamon takes the lead with cloves, allspice, and nutmeg layering in the warmth. Orange zest cuts through the richness so the cake doesn’t feel heavy on the tongue, even with the dates and raisins doing their sticky-sweet work.

The slow bake at a low temperature is the move. Persimmon batter is so dense and sugar-heavy that a hotter oven scorches the outside before the middle cooks through. Almost two hours at low heat lets the loaf set evenly and develop that fruitcake-meets-quick-bread texture.

Use Hachiya persimmons that are jelly-soft, almost translucent. Anything firm will be astringent and ruin the cake.

Pro Tips

• Wait until persimmons feel like a water balloon before scooping pulp. Underripe Hachiya persimmons are mouth-puckeringly tannic.
• Toss raisins, dates, and nuts in a little of the measured flour before adding. Keeps them from sinking to the bottom.
• Cover loosely with foil for the last 30 minutes if the top is browning too fast.
• Wrap cooled loaves in foil and let them rest a day before slicing. The flavor deepens and the crumb tightens up.

Variations

• Use pecans or walnuts for the nuts. Pecans lean buttery, walnuts a little more bitter and traditional.
• Add ¼ cup brandy or rum to the batter for a boozy holiday-cake spin.
• Bake as muffins for 25 minutes for portable spiced bites.