Red Tomato Marmalade

Tomato marmalade is one of those old-fashioned preserves that’s quietly brilliant and undeservedly forgotten. It sits somewhere between a chutney and a jam, with the savory acidity of cider vinegar and pickling spices balanced by just enough sugar to round things out. The result is the perfect condiment for ham, smoked meats, sharp cheese, or a turkey sandwich that needs more excitement than mayo can deliver.

Use the ripest, most flavorful red tomatoes you can find. End-of-summer garden tomatoes or farmstand seconds are perfect since cosmetic imperfections don’t matter once the fruit is cooked down. Out-of-season grocery store tomatoes will produce a flat, pale marmalade no matter what you do.

The quick boiling-water dunk is doing important work. Two minutes in boiling water loosens the skins for easy peeling. Cooking the tomatoes with the skins on leaves you picking peel out of every spoonful.

Pickling spice is a pre-mixed blend of mustard seed, allspice, cloves, cinnamon, peppercorns, and other warm spices. The flavor profile is what gives this marmalade its distinctive complex character. Tie the spices in cheesecloth if you want a smooth marmalade, or leave them loose for a chunkier rustic version.

Cook low and slow, stirring frequently. The mixture thickens as the tomato water evaporates and the natural pectin in the fruit sets. Test by spooning a small amount onto a cold plate. It should mound up rather than running.

Kitchen Tips

• Sterilize jars in boiling water for 10 minutes before filling. Hot marmalade goes into hot jars to prevent cracking.
• Process sealed jars in a boiling water bath for 15 minutes for shelf-stable storage, or refrigerate and use within 2 weeks.
• Skim the foam off the top during cooking for a clearer finished marmalade.
• The long cook drives off most of the vinegar harshness, leaving just bright acidity. Don’t reduce the vinegar if it tastes sharp during cooking.

Variations

• Substitute yellow or green tomatoes for a different color and slightly different flavor.
• Add ½ teaspoon ground ginger or 1 finely diced jalapeno for warmth.
• Stir in 1 cup chopped onion at the start for a more chutney-like result.