Red Tomato Salsa

This is a cooked salsa in the Mexican tradition, not the chunky pico de gallo most people think of. Roma tomatoes, sauteed onions, jalapenos, and garlic get pureed smooth, strained, and simmered for 20 minutes into a concentrated, deeply flavored sauce you can use a dozen different ways.

Cooking the onions until soft before blending is the first layer of flavor. Raw onion in salsa can be sharp and aggressive. Ten minutes in the skillet mellows it into something sweeter and more complex. That softened onion blends seamlessly into the puree and gives the finished salsa a rounder, more balanced flavor.

Straining after blending is what separates this from a homemade salsa that looks amateurish. Pressing the puree through a medium strainer removes seeds, skin fragments, and any fibrous bits, leaving you with a smooth, restaurant-quality consistency. Push hard with a spatula to get every bit of pulp through.

The 20-minute simmer reduces the salsa and concentrates the tomato flavor. It goes into the pan loose and comes out thick enough to coat a chip without running. Served cool as table salsa, or warm over red rice or chilaquiles.

Kitchen Tips

• Leave the jalapeno seeds in for more heat, or remove them for a milder salsa. Four large jalapenos with seeds is quite spicy.
• This salsa freezes for weeks. Portion into small containers so you can thaw only what you need.
• Taste and adjust salt after simmering. The reduction concentrates everything, including the seasoning.

Variations

• Char the tomatoes and jalapenos under a broiler before blending for a smokier, roasted salsa roja.
• Add a chipotle pepper in adobo to the blender for smoky depth and extra heat.
• Stir in a handful of fresh cilantro after cooking for brightness.