The Ultimate Tiramisu

Forget the shortcut version. This Italian classic is built the proper way, from a tender Pan di Spagna sponge rather than packaged ladyfingers. The result is a tiramisu with a lighter, more cake-like body that soaks up the coffee beautifully.

The filling sets it apart. Instead of just stirring sugar into mascarpone, you first make a zabaglione, egg yolks whisked with sugar and Marsala over simmering water until thick and warm, then beaten until cool. That cooked custard base adds richness and a gentle warmth from the Marsala, and it is safer than raw eggs, too.

Folded with smooth mascarpone and whipped cream, it turns cloud-light. Each layer of sponge gets brushed with an espresso-and-brandy syrup, then the cream, repeated, and finished with more whipped cream, a dusting of cinnamon, and a scatter of coffee grounds.

A few hours in the fridge lets it all meld, the coffee soaking through as the layers settle into one another.

Chef Tips

• Whisk the zabaglione over simmering (not boiling) water until thick, then beat it until cold before folding in the mascarpone, so it stays smooth.
• Bring the mascarpone to room temperature and smash it smooth first; cold mascarpone can turn lumpy or grainy.
• Brush, don’t drench, the sponge with syrup so the layers are moist but not soggy.
• Chill several hours, ideally overnight, so the flavors meld and it slices cleanly.

Variations

• Use ladyfingers in place of Pan di Spagna for a quicker assembly.
• Swap the brandy for dark rum, or leave the alcohol out and use extra espresso.
• Dust with cocoa instead of, or along with, the cinnamon.