Alicia's Flour Tortilla

Lard is what separates a great homemade tortilla from a passable one. It coats the flour particles in a way vegetable shortening can’t quite match, leaving the dough silky and the cooked tortillas with a tender, slightly flaky chew that bends without cracking. This is the way Mexican grandmothers have been making them for generations, and it’s worth tracking down good lard for.

Warm milk instead of water is the second secret. The fat and slight sweetness in milk give these tortillas a softer, richer interior that holds up well to wrapping around fillings without going stiff or brittle.

Knead until the dough feels smooth and elastic, then divide and roll thin, beyond what looks right. The dough puffs and thickens on the griddle, so paper-thin going in means properly thick going out.

A dry, hot griddle is all you need. Watch for those lightly browned spots and a quick puff up. That’s the signal to flip. Stack them under a clean towel as they come off so the steam keeps them soft.

Great with carne asada, refried beans, or simple buttered with cinnamon sugar.

Pro Tips

• Cut the lard into the flour with your fingertips until the mixture resembles coarse sand. This is the same technique as making pie crust.
• Add milk gradually. Start with less than you think you need. The dough should be soft but not sticky.
• Let the dough rest 15 to 20 minutes before rolling. Skipping this step makes the dough fight you on the rolling pin.
• Cast iron beats nonstick here. The high heat retention is what creates those signature freckled brown spots.
• Cook one at a time on a dry pan, no oil. Tortillas should toast, not fry.

Variations

• Use butter or vegetable shortening if lard isn’t available, though the texture will be slightly different.
• Mix half whole wheat flour with the all-purpose for a heartier, nuttier tortilla.
• Add a teaspoon of sugar for slightly sweeter tortillas, traditional in some regions.