Beet Pesto

This is a root-to-leaf pesto that uses both the beets and their greens, so nothing from the bunch goes to waste. The roots get steamed until fork-tender and the skins slip off easily under cold water. The greens get coarsely chopped and wilted into a skillet with red onion, garlic, and a banana pepper that adds a slight tang without much heat.

Toasted walnuts replace the traditional pine nuts, and they’re a smart swap here. Walnuts have enough fat and tannin to anchor the earthy beets, where pine nuts would get lost. Their faint bitterness also balances the natural sweetness of the roots.

Pureeing happens in two stages. First the cooked greens with their aromatics, then the beets and walnuts. Adding olive oil gradually keeps the texture from going gluey. The finished pesto comes out a vivid magenta and keeps in the fridge for up to two weeks or freezes well in small portions.

Chef Tips

• Steam the beets with a 1-inch stem still attached. This keeps them from bleeding out their color and flavor into the water.
• Toast walnuts in a dry skillet over medium-low heat until fragrant. Burnt walnuts will give the pesto a bitter, acrid edge.
• Wear gloves when handling cooked beets if you don’t want stained hands for a day.
• Add Parmesan only if serving immediately. Cheese shortens the storage life significantly.

Variations

• Toss with hot pasta and finish with crumbled goat cheese and lemon zest.
• Spread on toast or flatbread, then top with feta and fresh dill for a Mediterranean platter.
• Stir a spoonful into hummus for a brilliantly colored dip that uses pantry staples.