Oatmeal Biscuits

These biscuits land somewhere between a classic Southern biscuit and a morning scone: tender and flaky, with the nutty chew of quick oats and just enough brown sugar to read as gently sweet rather than dessert.

The cut-in method is what gives them their texture. Working cold shortening into the dry ingredients until it looks like coarse crumbs creates little pockets of fat that melt in the oven, steaming the dough into flaky layers. The trick is not to overwork it.

The other rule is restraint with the wet ingredients: stir in the oats and milk just until the dough comes together. Overmixing develops gluten and turns biscuits tough and dense instead of light.

Made with whole wheat flour, they pick up extra fiber and a heartier flavor. They’re best warm from the oven, split and spread with butter, honey or jam.

Kitchen Tips

• Keep the shortening cold and work quickly; warm fat melts into the dough and you lose the flakiness.
• Mix just until moistened; a few dry streaks are fine and better than overworking.
• Press scraps together gently to re-cut rather than rolling them again and again, which toughens them.
• Set them an inch apart for crisp sides, or touching for soft, pull-apart edges.

Variations

• Stir in raisins, dried cranberries or chopped nuts for breakfast biscuits.
• Add a teaspoon of cinnamon to the dry mix.
• Brush the tops with milk and sprinkle with oats and sugar before baking.