Rob’s Christmas ham with fennel coleslaw

This is a centerpiece ham made for a crowded Christmas table, lacquered in a sticky apricot-and-sherry glaze and warmed through with cinnamon and ground star anise. A crackly brown sugar crust pulls it all together.

Scoring the fat into deep diamonds is the step that matters most. The cuts let the spiced glaze sink down into the meat, render the fat, and give you that classic studded, glossy finish.

Press the brown sugar firmly into those score marks so it caramelizes into a sweet, crisp shell, and keep some glaze back for basting as it bakes. Check it often, since all that sugar can scorch in a hurry.

Alongside it goes a bright fennel coleslaw, all shaved fennel, cabbage, radish, and chili in a herby yogurt dressing. Its crunch and anise snap cut clean through the rich, sweet ham.

Chef Tips

• Score the fat about an inch deep in a diamond pattern, cutting through the fat but not into the meat. This is what lets the glaze flavor the ham and the fat render.
• Add a little water to the roasting tin. It catches the dripping glaze so it doesn’t burn and smoke.
• Baste with the reserved glaze and check every 20 minutes. The high sugar content can go from golden to burnt fast.
• Dress the coleslaw just before serving so the fennel and cabbage stay crisp instead of going limp.

Variations

• Swap the apricot jam for orange marmalade, fig jam, or cherry preserves for a different glaze.
• Add sliced apple or toasted seeds to the coleslaw for extra crunch and sweetness.